Sergey, I did not get to know how it is …

ЭТО – КОММЕНТАРИЙ К СТАТЬЕ: My friend used to shoot on the full-frame Nikon D800 and now he starts to use the Fujifilm X-T2. What is the result?, оставленный читателем (нажмите на ссылку, чтобы почитать саму статью) Oleg.

Sergey, I did not get to know how it is done on Fuji X, but on the Sony Alpha 6000 it’s setup with the same hand that you hold the camera with, and there’s no talking about LONG picking in the menu. In general, it’s unclear why you’ve stuck to this ISO.

This is done like this: rolling the multifunction wheel with your thumb to the right and you change ISO by the WHEEL. What decides is a fraction of a second, when you make a move to the side with the same hand that you hold the camera, is generally unclear.

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My friend used to shoot on the full-frame Nikon D800 and now he starts to use the Fujifilm X-T2. What is the result?
In my opinion, it is free package for Sony A6000. It is necessary to dive into the search box and registration card. But for MAC-headed enough built-in converter – we spent a Facebook-friend “treatment with” the same frame in the Capture One and built-in program with the installed plugin of DXO – the comparison is not in favor of C1.


My friend used to shoot on the full-frame Nikon D800 and now he starts to use the Fujifilm X-T2. What is the result?
If such bands appear and when shooting in the sun – obviously, the faulty work is in the shutter. But, I think, this is most likely the frequency of the lamp flicker is superimposed.


My friend used to shoot on the full-frame Nikon D800 and now he starts to use the Fujifilm X-T2. What is the result?
Sergey, do you remember that in some of the feeds of the commentaries, we discussed your choice of the Nikon 24-70mm f2.8, and I wrote that for many people, as a standard lens, for the beginning, is useful the Nikon 24-85mm f3.5-4, 5. I had such a lens, and I, in order not to lie, took it, it seems, for $ 150, and the picture from it was acceptable, even though it is a KIT.

So, the aperture f/2.8-4 on the zoom – it’s almost the same f/3.5-4.5. Believe me, this difference with the KIT lens does not solve ANYTHING. It’s not even a difference in f-stop! If we were talking about the choice of a zoom with a constant aperture of f/2.8, but with smaller focal lengths or larger focal lengths… but a slow zoom is a polar dots on which there is a priority of aperture or focal length. But a semi-slow travel zoom with cut focal length… it’s neither fish nor meat.

Although, perhaps Elena knows why she needs such a compromise. I would choose at the slow zoom of Fujinon 18-135, and if necessary I would buy something fast with focuses specifically for tasks.